Liz In Ukraine

Before During and after my visit to Ukraine in 2025

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  • Kyiv, Ukraine, is light in all the dark of war

    As putin continues his war against Ukrainian civilians, Ukrainians fight back with drone strikes against military and utility targets inside Russia. On November 29th, a drone and missile attack on Kyiv killed two people, injured thirty-eight others, and left most of the city without power—and by default, without water—because of damage to transmission lines.

    When I visited Ukraine in October, four things struck me most.

    One was the women: fashion-conscious and chic, yet all wearing sensible shoes. The cobbled streets of Ukrainian towns and cities demand practicality, unlike in Poland where, upon leaving Ukraine, I saw stilettos, high heels, and slip-on court shoes everywhere. In Ukraine, the only heels I saw were worn by a bride in her wedding gown.

    That detail has stayed with me. In a country where infrastructure is under attack and daily life is precarious, people still find ways to express identity and elegance. Sensible shoes on cobbled streets are not just a fashion choice—they are a quiet symbol of resilience, of adapting to hardship without surrendering grace.

    The second was the sheer number of portable generators outside shops, hotels, offices, and homes. They varied in size from small individual units to machines as large as a truck, sitting like sentinels, waiting to be called into use at a moment’s notice. Their presence was a reminder that survival in Ukraine is not abstract—it is powered by ingenuity, preparation, and the hum of engines ready to restore light and warmth when darkness falls.

    Third, the protection afforded to ministerial and cultural buildings and monuments. Statues wrapped in sandbags or defensive shields. Windows and doors boarded and buffeted with more sandbags. In certain areas, civilian access is prohibited and photography strictly forbidden. These measures don’t just protect new security installations since Russia’s attacks, but also safeguard those serving in uniform and their families.

    And finally…

    Ukrainians’ black and bleak sense of humour. They worry it does not translate well, or that outsiders will fail to see it for what it is: a defensive mechanism, a way of coping with relentless horror. Yet within Ukraine, this humour is a quiet act of defiance, proof that even in the darkest times, the human spirit insists on finding a voice.

  • What I Brought Home from Ukraine (And Poland)

    I’ve been conscious that my blog’s been gathering dust lately. Truth be told, I brought a lot home from Ukraine and Poland — not just souvenirs and stories, but images that still sit heavy in my mind. Thought-provoking moments from Auschwitz. Notes on grassroots projects and NGOs doing extraordinary work. And, unexpectedly, a multidrug-resistant bacterial infection.

    Yes, really.

    The Hidden Epidemic: MDR Infections in Ukraine

    Multidrug-resistant (MDR) bacterial infections are a growing crisis in Ukraine, exacerbated by the war. The combination of damaged healthcare infrastructure, inappropriate antibiotic use, and overcrowded displacement camps has created a perfect storm for resistance to thrive.

    Here’s what I learned — and lived:

    Key Concerns

    •             MDR bacteria(Multi drug Resistant Bacteria) : These infections are resistant to multiple antibiotics, making them extremely difficult to treat.

    •             Widespread resistance: Strains like Klebsiella pneumoniae and Acinetobacter baumannii have developed resistance to nearly all available treatments.

    •             High prevalence in soldiers: War-wounded individuals are especially vulnerable, with the NDM-1 gene found in some wound infections.

    •             Healthcare impact: Damaged hospitals, staff shortages, and limited supplies mean infection control is often compromised.

    •             Severe consequences: Infections can escalate to sepsis, and in some cases, amputation is the only viable option.

    Contributing Factors

    •             Disrupted healthcare: War has crippled access to care and infection control.

    •             Antibiotic misuse: Overuse and incorrect use of antibiotics fuel resistance. Its very easy to buy antibiotics over the counter in Ukraine leading to over and or inappropriate use.

    •             Environmental contamination: Overcrowding and poor sanitation in camps, on public transport and in some public refreshment areas can accelerate spread.

    •             Mass displacement  combined with russias targeting of hospitals and health facilities means public health systems are struggling to keep up with troop/ population movements and their changing medical need.

     Why This Matters

    This isn’t just a medical issue — it’s a humanitarian one. MDR infections are a silent, slow-moving crisis that affects civilians, soldiers, aid workers, and anyone caught in the crossfire of conflict. I didn’t expect to become part of that statistic, but here we are.

    I’ll be sharing more soon — about the NGOs we visited, the people we met, and the resilience we witnessed. But for now, this is a reminder: some of the most dangerous things we bring home aren’t visible at all.  I thought I was prepared for all eventualities and could not understand why I struggled physically so much but at least I am here writing my blog again.

    International Infection Control

  • Made with Love: Soup and Smiles from kids in a kitchen to the Frontline

    Food is very important to the soldiers fighting in the trenches and we were about to  witness how high calorific tasty soup mixture is made and packaged to feed the defenders at the front.

    We arrived at another non-descript house on another non-descript road. The complex simplicity of supplying the Ukrainian front line was about to be fully demonstrated again.

    It was joyous to see a small group, of children all aged twelve or under, giggling, a little embarrassed at meeting these strangers from strange lands and, best of all seeing them when they broke away to play on a garden swing and laughed with such delight it was a privilege to behold.

    I noticed a couple of the girls looking at me and whispering but thought nothing of it not even when they approached me and asked my name.    “Liz, L.I.Z.” I said and I spelled it out.

    Then the question, to explain the side eye interest and whispers, “Do you have a blog?”

    I explained I did and gave the blog title. The smiles on the faces grew huge. These girls had read my blog.  They were meeting the writer of a blog they had read and it was like I was special.  They had their picture taken with me and I took pictures of them making the soup mix.

    This is a practised production line. Ingredients are measured, large dehydrated items efficiently crushed and then the serious and thorough mixing began.

    Once it was agreed that the mix was correct ziplock bags appeared complete with instructions and a claim of “Зроблено з любов’ю” [made with love] printed on the labels and each packet was careful filled with the correct quantity.
    One batch mixed by these youngsters makes one hundred and thirty packets of ‘one man’ soup. They feed one hundred and thirty soldiers from this little kitchen table.

    They offered us samples of the soup and initially I declined, not wanting to wanting to come between a squaddie and his grub. But then I remembered my ‘Old cold war warrior’ at home and I struck a deal with the kids.

    I would pay them 1000uah for a packet of soup as long as they used the money to treat themselves.  For something fun for them. 

    At a time when we are all raising money for so many worthy Ukrainian organisations it suddenly struck me: nothing is as worthy as the joy given to kids who can go and buy ‘whatever’ they want guilt free. That they earned that money and it is theirs to do with as the wish.

    I hope they wasted it on themselves as unwisely as possible.

  • Artem a warrior from Chernihiv

    I met Artem in Chernihiv.  He’s a big bloke in every sense of the word; with a squaddies sense of humour. 

    He was on Snake island.  “Were you there when the soldier said “Русский военный корабль, иди нахуй”? asked one of our group. 

    “Listen, for sure if you believed every soldier then there was about three hundred on the island that day” he said with a huge grin on his face and a massive twinkle in his eye.

     Prior to the war he ran his own coffee shops and worked as a body guard on the side.

    Losing his eye has done little to stop his determination to maintain a free country for his son and “my sons’ sons”

    Now as well as helping to train his old military unit, he also assists the reintegration and rehabilitation of wounded soldiers via sports, he cooks for displaced persons, those on need and service personnel and he was involved in the evacuation of Chernihiv,

    With approximately 50 other people he helped 26.000 civilians escape to safety at the very beginning of the war.    Surrounded by russian troops and with no safe ‘green’ corridors bringing in and dispersing aid and evacuating civilians was a continuous and changing learning curve. 

    The russians would quickly target and shell groups of civilians congregating in one area to collect food or supplies.  Done possibly by observing so many cell phones in one point, distribution of aid became faster and widespread over many drop points.

    With the mantra of ‘improvise adapt and overcome’ decisions were made dynamically and at speed avoiding the delaying relay of messages up and down to higher command.

    On one evacuation mission Artem noticed a young mother with a baby of 4- 6 weeks being crushed in the panicking crowd.  He physically fought his way to her and placed her in his own car to get her and the child safely out of Chernihiv.  He expressed regrate that he still does not know if the mother and child are still alive. Artem as a native Chernihiv resident is proud that “we had many, many routes on road and on water in a boat.

    Artem discussed many things, his battle to try to ensure he stays unemotional when faced with burned bodies.  He hates that he can tell the difference between the small of a burnt adult and a burnt child. He will never ‘unlearn this’

     He went on to explain that there is no feeling like the happiness achieved when a soldier receives and smells warm fresh bread

    I asked if it was true that soldiers on the front line really have as many cats and dogs and TikTok would have us believe, and it is true. They are not just mascots they’re warmth, companionship, and even protection. “Cats can sense danger,”

    Artem doesn’t want to be fighting, hew would rather be at home with his wife and son but he is all too aware that without the fight and resistance there will be no home for him and his family.   He is painfully aware that if russia overruns Ukraine then Poland and Hungary will be the next to suffer the evil eye of the russian war machine.

    Finally, I asked Artem “When you win and the war is over, where will you go on holiday?

    Without hesitation he states the beaches of Crimea.  Despite the painful memories, he dreams of taking his wife and son there — to feel the sand, the sea, and the freedom they fought for.

    Read more about Artem Here

  • russian war crimes against the civilians of Yagidne

    The Chernihiv Oblast region holds seventeen villages. It’s the smallest region in Ukraine and in 2022 ten of those villages were fully occupied by russian military personal,

    Property was looted, livestock and domesticated animals were slain and all community and cultural buildings were damaged to varying degrees.

    Yagidne is a peaceful village surrounded by forest within the Chernihiv Oblast region of Ukraine.    It has pretty houses surrounded by tall grey fences, which some of the locals’ dislike due to their ‘prisonlike’ appearance, some houses look almost brand new and a seemingly state of the art solar lighting system shines down on the less than ten streets of the village

    It also has a school; that is in a state of destruction.

    When russia invaded Ukraine people moved back to their family homes in Yagidne thinking they would be safer in a small village away from the cities. 

    From Third March 2022 to the Thirtieth of March 2022 nearly 380 of the civilian population were held as hostages and human shields in two rooms of the basement of the Yagidne school.

    The oldest was ninety-three and the youngest was just six weeks.

    Ten prisoners would die in these rooms and a further eight residents died with the occupied village.  One male was last seen being tortured by russian soldiers but his body has never been found.

    There were rapes. There were murders. There was torture. There was starvation. There was a refusal to allow the burial of the dead until there were at least five bodies to be buried.  So, the bodies rotted in the rooms with the living. 

    When the villagers where finally allowed above ground to bury their dead, they found themselves the target of russian shelling forcing, them to jump into the graves and lie on the deceased who had just been placed there.

    The names of the dead with the dates of their deaths are listed, written in charcoal around one of the basement doorways. One side lists those who died in the basement the other lists those the villagers knew had died above ground.

    In the larger of the two rooms there ten people died. Lack of oxygen, no light, windows and little to know sanitation severely affected some of the elderly who slowly became insane before they died.

    Begging for medicines food or water had no effect and, when eventually allowed up above ground the villagers found shots ringing out over their heads and into the ground around their feet.

    The six-week-old baby, who had been underground and in pitch dark for so long could not open its eyes or face the outside daylight.

    The smell of urine, faeces’, body odour and, vomit became unbearable.  Some of the elderly became more and more immobile suffering sores from soiled underwear that was adhering to their skin.

    One of the rooms had a wooden floor so small bunkbeds were made for the children, age eight to sixteen years old, to sleep on.

    In the other room a flat table type area was made so the children could be off the floor and play in a ‘safe’ area.

    One room had three buckets for toileting purposes the other only one.  None of these were emptied in good time.

    With just one cup of water, and half a cup of military ration type food per person per day Mothers would often forego food for themselves to give the children more food.

    When one of the women approached a russian soldier to ask for help as people were dying, she was coldly told “people die-it’s war”

    I was only in those rooms for a short time; with no more than twenty-one or two people.  The place still smells. The dust creeps into one’s nose, throat, and sticks to the skin.

    The rooms hold the writings and drawing of the children on the walls. There is more than one calendar and, as mentioned, the lists of the dead.

    Objects that had been left down in the basements testify to man’s inhumanity to man.  The occupants of one room were surprised to be given an electric light.

    This was to allow them to read copies of the russian newspaper Pravda, the russian newspaper.  Paper is always useful when sanitation is a bucket.

    [to be continued]

  • Cottage Industry Rearmament (and a muddy pawed dog called Dzyga)

    In a non-descript pretty street is a non-descript pretty Ukrainian home.  Actually, that’s not true it has some very beautiful distinguishing features but to prevent it being identified I had to resist the urge to photograph them.

    Here lives Dzyga with her owners Dimko and Ira who established a charity foundation to support the various Armed Forces of Ukraine. One day Dzyga wanted to help out with the packing of uniforms that were to be sent out and her perfect muddy pawprint left as her ‘I was here’ moment, became the logo (and name) for Dzygas Paw Fund.

    The front room of the house has the usual sofa, TV, desk, chairs, and a downed russian fly by wire drone.

    From the ceiling hangs a chandelier whilst on the walls hang plaques shield and certificates of thanks from some of the units, they have provided bespoke equipment for.

    Another room holds medals and decorated shells that troops on the front line have presented to the team.  Some of these stunningly beautiful shells are available for sale and. If I thought I would have got it through air port security I would have bought one myself.  I hope that we may be able to work out a way to ship some to the UK for live auction to raise much needed funds.

    For those who fear misuse of funds rest assured that Transparency is crucial for Dzyga’s Paw as it builds trust and credibility with our donors.

    I wont repeat what you can read yourself from their website but I can say that by visiting and talking directly with those using the drones on the front line Dzygas Paw ensures that all equipment is bespoke to the needs of their situation. Click this link to learn more about the individual units who have been assisted by Dzygas Paw

    So, why the title “Cottage Industry Rearmament”? The Armed Forces of Ukraine are not just supported by their and other governments. All around the country in non-descript  buildings in non-descript roads 3Dprinters are printing, electronics are being worked on, and once they are brought together to make exactly what is wanted at the front then volunteers drive the equipment, and any other donations needed, directly to the people who will be using it. 

    There is no one massive factory that could be targeted by the invading aggressors impacting on production. There are many mini ‘factories’ making many different things, and they are all manned by people who are just getting the job done.

  • Live Life Now…

    One of our guides in Lviv explained the phrase echoing across Ukraine: “Live life now”, because tomorrow is not guaranteed.

    It’s more than a motto—it’s a heartbeat, an act of biology, a creation of history

    These aren’t just words. They’re an act of defiance. A quiet rebellion against fear and intimidation. A promise that, despite the painful toll of putins aggression, joy, love, and purpose will not be postponed.

    To live fully, even under threat, is to insist that Ukraine and it’s people has a future.

    Later, we paid our respects at the memorial cemetery in Lviv, where those who fell defending their homeland, families, and friends are laid to rest.
    The sheer enormity of the place was overwhelming. But what struck me most was the quiet intimacy: nearly every grave had a bench beside it. A place for the bereaved to sit, to talk, to remember. To remain close.
    We arrived at 1800 hours. The air was thick with the fragrance of millions of flowers—so dense I could taste them. It wasn’t just scent; it was memory, devotion, and love, suspended in the evening light.

    Every Grave Has a Story.
    A steady flow of loved ones moved between the rows, bearing flowers. A mother and her children passed me as I walked up the hill. Quiet footsteps faded away. Quiet sorrow does not fade so easily..

    Then I saw her—a dignified woman tending a grave. I looked at her and she returned my gaze.

    I spoke and as if meant to be she, in fluent English, told me this was her husband’s resting place. He was a medic. On 20 October 2022, he and his fellow medic were trying to reach injured soldiers when a Russian tank fired on them—twice. They were both killed, she hoped instantly. She pointed out the resting place of her husband colleague.
    She showed me the fresh flowers she’d brought to brighten his grave. We cried. We hugged. I was in awe of her strength—this widow, this mother of three.
    “Every grave here has a story just like ours,” she said.
    We hugged again. And then we parted.

  • A little circumspection…

    By car, plane and, train and here I am.  It’s early days and I have marvelled at the super moon shining brightly through the plane window as we flew over Poland.  The harvest/hunters moon – an omen?

    My back pack is now lighter and my case has been filled to expansion and beyond. I’ve made the most of my last shower in a warzone free area (I really don’t fancy being nekkid and in the shower should I need rescuing from a drone strike) so it’s all squaddie washes from here until the return to places of peace.

    It’s surprising how fast my emotional intelligence switched up a notch.  Black humour, making light and a stiff upper lip is a very English trait.

    Here I am alert, observant, cautious and I would be a liar if I did not say I was erring on the side of being afraid.  Only an idiot or a madman expresses glibly that they have no fear.  They are a danger to themselves and those around them.  I’m quite satisfied to be fearfully wise!

    I have to apologise in advance.  My posts will arrive when I can send them.  They will not be overly detailed until I have left an area, security prevents posts giving clear details of my location but I hope the reader can understand this.

    Just in case a building falls on head I am learning to live, and sleep, with my Acme Thunderer Whistle; (Made in Britain no less) and my dog tag secure round my neck.   

    This has, however, led to a few WTF is that? wake up calls. Especially when the Air Alert goes off on my phone -the wonders of new technology! Sleep tight peeps

  • Supporting Ukraine: Gifts That Give Back

    Today I visited some of my former work colleagues, and our conversations naturally turned to Ukraine—its resilience, its people, and the many ways we can help. One powerful takeaway was this: support doesn’t always mean donating cash. Sometimes, it’s about choosing to buy from Ukrainian creators and support groups directly.

    The invasion by putin has sparked a wave of innovative fundraising efforts, and here are a few trusted initiatives that offer meaningful gifts—perfect for that “person who has everything.”

    🔑 MemorySteel – Our Story and Mission

    As you can see from the photos, my husband proudly received one of their original large key rings for his birthday a couple of years ago. MemorySteel offers a range of useful and unusual gifts, ideal for anyone seeking a thoughtful Christmas present for that hard-to-buy-for relative.

    🎯 Saint Javelin

    “A heritage outdoor lifestyle brand merging traditional Ukrainian craftsmanship with modern design to create meaningful apparel that brings timeless quality to your everyday.”

    Founded by Christian Borys, a Ukrainian-Polish Canadian and former journalist, Saint Javelin began with a modest goal of raising $500. It has since surpassed $2.3 million in contributions, all directed toward rebuilding Ukraine for Ukrainians. Their clothing is not only symbolic—it’s of exceptional quality.

    📮 UA Postcards – #StandWithUkraine

    Postcards with purpose. UA Postcards now includes a tab that makes it easy to send messages to Russian embassies, U.S. political leaders, or even President Zelensky himself. It’s a simple yet powerful way to make your voice heard.

    💛 Want to support my personal fundraising efforts?

    I’ll be in Ukraine meeting with Ukrainian groups and individuals over the coming weeks, and if you’d like to contribute directly to those efforts, you can do so via buymeacoffee.com/lizwalker.

    Whether you choose to support by reading and subscribing to this blog, staying informed, sharing your knowledge, or purchasing from these incredible initiatives—thank you. Every action matters.

  • So what does one pack when visiting a war zone?

    Its nearly Go day so I have done my first pack to make sure everything fits. I am actually really impressed with myself. (Smug mode) I’ve been really strict meaning I have space, and no need to jump up and down on bags whilst swearing and trying to force them closed.

    To save money, and as I am going to be the one humping my stuff, I am using hand luggage only. I’ve also sourced an oversize utility waistcoat with so many pockets it’s going to be like a game of treasure hunt just to find my chewing gum!

    Power packs are charged and checked, multi socket leads are secured and I have a solar kit and multitool ‘meeting’ me in Poland. 

    I have the complete range of pills and potions. Vitamins, minerals, electrolytes, indigestion remedies and, Imodium.  Lots of Imodium…NOBODY wants explosive diarrhoea in a war zone. [also two squished rolls of the necessary sanitary paperwork]

    My Ouch Pouch is fully equipped with my personal first aid kit. My ‘dog tag’ has my ID, next of kin details and blood group on it …just in case.

    I have two water bottles, one collapsable to hold water being treated with water purifying tabs and one hard case so I can tell the real difference.

    I’m also taking some fun stuff; I’ll be spending time with a family whilst in Ukraine and was advised to bring a small gift that represents my culture.  What else is a girl to do but pick up some locally made Marmalade form the nearest Country Market. 

    I have every flavour of Tic Tac, a picture puzzle book, with colouring pencils and some hand made soap and a china thimble, my gran always had a chino thimble and I shall try to explain this to whomsoever I am staying with.

    A lot of my kit will be staying in Ukraine with those who are in more need of them than I. I’ve also raised about £400 so far, which sounds so much better when converted to 22151.95 Ukrainian Hryvnia.   

    With average bread prices being 42.99–49.49 UAH for a 600gm loaf the cost of living in Ukraine is, on average, 57.5% lower than in United Kingdom a little money goes a long way to making a difference to those who will be receiving it.  With a plan to purchase consumable items locally in Ukraine the donations will go so much further, Monies will be supporting local businesses and employees and the goods purchased will be going directly to those in need. 

    #slavaukraini

    #weareallukrainians